November 12, 2004

Isla Contoy Bird Sanctuary

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Isla Contoy is a long, slender island off the coast of the Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico. At the time we were staying at Playa Norte on Isla Mujeres and decided to take a day trip to see Isla Contoy, a bird santuary miles to the north.

Approaching Isla Contoy

From Isla Mujeres

In the morning we met the captain and a few fellow passengers and hustled down to the dock. For several hours we faced the monotonous Yucatan jungle on one side and the flat sea on the right. The water was often very shallow. It was hot and pleasant, but the ride got rather boring half-way through. But then we stopped for some snorkeling on a beautiful reef out in the middle of nowhere.

Hermit Crab

Island Critters

Isla Contoy lays low but can easily be seen amidst the unchecked expanse of land and sea. Flocks of frigate birds circle overhead. We pulled up to the dock and moseyed out to check out the island. The beach was empty until our small group came along. Like the surrounding ocean, the island's bay was very shallow. We cruised around a bit, finding the island's conservation outpost that monitors the birds. Having a job here is akin to a perpetual vacation. Someone noticed this huge hermit crab crawling on the rock wall. He was as big as my hand, and when compressed, more solid than a fist and heavily fortified like an advancing tank, identical to the species we encountered in St. John on the other side of the Caribbean.

Watchful Iguana

Elsewhere we saw iguanas lying about on rocks and this wood pile, soaking warmth into their bellies. This one eyed us as we walked past. They are wary but lazy. Benign vegetarians, iguanas will whip their tail and bite only if severely provoked.

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Beach, Isla Contoy

Lunch!

In the end we retired to the beach. The captain and his friend we grilling the fish they had caught on the way over. It was deliciously savory! Standard taco fixins were aplenty. An ice chest of Coronas was thrown open and everybody was having a good time.

Stingrays

About this time the local stingrays put in an appearance in a shallow area of the beach near the feast. Once we were in the water they circled around us quite a bit, working the crowd no doubt. It was pretty cool to see them so close— hovering right at my feet in eight inches of water. Somebody grabbed some fish and fed them. They were pretty stoked. That was some good fish.

Leaving Isla Mujeres

Checking out Isla Contoy is a highly recommended day trip from Isla Mujeres. In turn, Isla Mujeres is a highly recommended alternative to Cancun. Ferries make regular excursions between them, but to get to Isla Contoy you need to check into one the dive shops to get the ride. An all-you-can-eat lunch and cerveza is usually included. Bring a book for the boat ride. And don't forget the camera.